ArdAzAei Couture Fall 2026: La Vie en Rose

by · WWD
ArdAzAei Fall 2026 Couture Collection at Paris Couture WeekCourtesy of ArdAzAei

After four couture collections establishing her house codes, Iranian Swedish designer Bahareh Ardakani appears to have reached a turning point. The founder of Paris-based couture house ArdAzAei has traded some of the too literal storytelling that defined her earlier work for something more organic.

Taking inspiration from the Persian story of “The Nightingale’s Rose,” which symbolizes beauty, longing and unattainable love, Ardakani brought her collection to the Hôtel du Châtelet for the historic residence’s first fashion show, an intimate and intricately gilded venue.

Yet the collection felt notably more restrained and delicate. Rather than relying on overt references, Ardakani let technique do the talking.

You May Also Like

“I think I’m becoming more comfortable with having a structure that is more architectural, and then adding the poetry on top,” she told WWD.

That confidence comes from spending nearly every day in her Paris atelier, where almost the entire 26-look collection was produced in-house. Working alongside her couturiers allowed Ardakani to explore increasingly complex construction while making the gowns appear lighter and less overwrought.

“I wanted to go for quite difficult techniques, but then kind of deconstruct them,” she added.

Her engineer mindset has long informed her work, and this season that translated into pleating designed to mimic feathers, geometric smocking inspired by Persian gardens and layered silk, lace and chiffon that created depth.

Collection Gallery 26 Photos

View Gallery

There was evolution elsewhere, too. Known for neutral tones and her signature lavender, Ardakani embraced warmer reds, copper ochres and flashes of cobalt blue inspired by Persian miniature paintings and antique carpets.

The designer, who has also been developing the house’s ready-to-wear line, credited working at both ends of the fashion spectrum as helping to expand her palette and refine her design language. She also added new shoe shapes in a lace-up heel.

Ardakani, who has championed certified textiles and built the line on sustainable principles, took more liberties with fabrics this season, she said, which allowed her a bit more freedom.

“This year I needed to really focus on construction,” she said. “I put my soul into this.”

For a young couture house still establishing itself, the season suggested Ardakani is beginning to trust her instincts rather than complicated symbolism for a more assured collection.