Fashion East Spring 2027: Trying Out Ideas
by Mary Wenthur,Lily Templeton · WWD- Share this article on Facebook
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Fashion East’s second-season designers Jacek Gleba, Goyagoma by Traicelene Pratt, Louis Mayhew, and newcomer Mé Mé, a recent Central Saint Martin’s graduate, all pursued experimental processes that they haven’t tried before.
At Manor Place, a collaborative sports hub and creative event space by Nike and Palace, show-goers were first greeted with blown-up photographs from Mayhew. In candid, clear photographs, models wore cut- up and reconstructed polo shirts and charity-shop costume jewelry. He didn’t plan on producing an exhibition; “the way that I guided myself through research, it just sort of happened,” Mayhew said.
Then came his fellow Fashion East designers’ physical collections, bringing playful spins on soft tailoring using layers of tulle, delicate lace cutouts, and colorful embroideries.
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Mé Mé, who’s worked at McQueen and Maison Margiela, fused tailoring and knits to create an illusion of paper that when scrunched, folded into new forms.
Bahamian designer Pratt stepped away from his usual “obsessive” pattern making in favor of embroidery and embellishments. He drew from his heritage to create a black sheer maxi dress with detailed needle work and a thick polo shirt, completely covered in pearl sequins resembling broken ocean shells.
Gleba explored many different materials, using lace to structure cutout patterns, sequins covering pants, and sustainable denim washing. He worked with Spanish eco-friendly denim textile company Jeanologia to create cutout jean jackets and fitted jorts with intricate top-stitching.