Chanel's grand bow to the future: The fashion juggernaut dazzles even without a designer

It was a collection that could have been rudderless, a placeholder lost in transition. Instead, it was sterling — refined, exacting, and utterly Chanel.

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By all logic, Chanel should be floundering. A global juggernaut without a captain, the house has been in a state of limbo since the abrupt departure of Virginie Viard, drifting toward an uncertain horizon while awaiting the arrival of Matthieu Blazy in the fall.

Yet against all odds, inside the majestic Grand Palais, Chanel did what it has done for a century: endure. And not just endure — dazzle. The VIP-filled fall show on Tuesday unfolded beneath a colossal swirling black ribbon, an audacious centerpiece that coiled toward the ceiling, defiant and theatrical. It was a collection that could have been rudderless, a placeholder lost in transition. Instead, it was sterling — refined, exacting, and utterly Chanel.

Here are some highlights:

BOWS, PEARLS & SHEER GENIUS (PUN INTENDED)

Many looks were framed by an outer layer of sheer silk — flowing blouses draped over jackets, tulle overlays that subtly distorted the lines of traditional tweed tailoring, and diaphanous flounced capes that floated above classic Chanel silhouettes.

This interplay of transparency and structure gave the collection an airy, dreamlike quality. Matte satin ribbon trimmed a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket, while pretty bows secured balloon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic top. A trio of dresses featured a fluttering ribbon print tracing the brand’s signature interlocking Cs. Allover looks played with superpositions of the same fabric, creating surrealist effects: a cherry red tweed jacket, wrap skirt and flared pants appeared alongside matching accessories like a boater hat, gloves and boots. By blending light, illusionary fabrics with bold statement pieces, Chanel underscored its mastery of craftsmanship and innovative design.

One accessory stole the show: a giant pearl handbag, appearing across multiple looks and drawing instant snapping. Alongside the monochromatic elegance, there were flashes of colour — red tweed, bright silk linings, and surrealist layering, an echo of Karl Lagerfeld’s high-energy collections.

FASHION ROYALTY & HOLLYWOOD POWER

The front row was a mix of fashion royalty and Hollywood power, with Naomi Campbell, Riley Keough and Charlotte Casiraghi leading the pack. Actresses Dakota Fanning and Simone Ashley also made an appearance, alongside music sensations Raye and AP Dhillon, proving Chanel’s ability to captivate across generations and cultures.

NAOMI CAMPBELL ON A LEGACY OF DIVERSITY

In an interview with The Associated Press, Naomi Campbell, a longtime Chanel icon, reflected on the show’s nostalgic 90s influences. “I love the artisan, the workmanship. They go back and look into the history of the DNA of the brand — that’s what they think of first and foremost. And then they create it, but with that twist on it. This show for me had a lot of things that reminded me of the 90s, and I loved the silhouettes, the skirt, the jacket, the skirt and pants together. Everything was very wearable.”

She also reminisced about her friend, the late Lagerfeld, whose vision defined Chanel for decades. “I really miss his honesty,” she said. “He had a soft spot, but he never sugarcoated anything. We always worked at night, and sometimes he’d tell me to stay over. It was such an incredible time. His presence is still felt, always.”

But beyond the clothes, Campbell emphasised Chanel’s strides in diversity. Last year, Lupita Nyong’o was named a house ambassador, further solidifying Chanel’s commitment to representation. “I have such respect for Chanel for being the first luxury brand to go to sub-Saharan Africa, to Dakar, which I got to witness."

The house had a landmark Métiers d’Art show in Dakar in 2022, the first time a major luxury brand staged a show in that region. It wasn’t just a one-time event. It launched an ongoing cultural exchange program. Chanel has continued its engagement with Dakar by bringing students to Paris and sending artisans back to Senegal, fostering a lasting creative dialogue.

RILEY KEOUGH ON ROCK-AND-ROLL

Elvis Presley’s granddaughter and Daisy Jones & The Six star Riley Keough, who famously swung on a swing in a giant bird cage at a recent Chanel show, jumped up from her front row seat to share her excitement about being a brand ambassador. “It’s amazing. I feel so lucky to be involved with the House,” she said.

When asked about her own personal style and whether it was influenced by her trend-setting grandfather, she acknowledged a love for less traditionally feminine silhouettes. “It depends on my mood, but I typically go for something a little more androgynous.”

Keough also spoke about her role as the custodian of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s legendary estate. After Lisa Marie Presley’s passing in 2023, she embraced this responsibility, balancing the weight of her grandfather’s legacy with her own voice and values. “I really just try and follow what my mother did,” she said. “I feel lucky to have seen how she wanted Graceland represented. It’s about respecting what’s come before while still finding my own path.”

With Blazy set to take the reins in October, the anticipation for Chanel’s next era is palpable. Keough summed up the prevailing sentiment: “Everyone’s really excited. Chanel has such a huge legacy, and it’s got to be right — but I don’t think it will disappoint.”